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Day Skipper - Part 1 - Knots
& ropework
Ropes are made in a variety of fibres and in two main constructions:
Nylon Very elastic and absorbs shock. Can be dangerous if it
parts; does not float.
Polyester Very little stretch and an excellent all-round rope;
does not float.
Polypropylene Inexpensive, not as strong as polyester but it
floats. Ideal for rescue lines, dinghy painters and so on.
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Laid or twisted rope Normally laid right-handed (always
coil up clockwise); easy to splice. |
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Plaited or braided rope Very smooth, ideal for halyards
and so on; common on sailing boats. Difficult to splice. |
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Figure of eight
Ideal as a stopper. It prevents the end escaping through a block or
fairlead. As a temporary measure it stops a fraying rope unravelling
further. |
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Reef knot
The original way to join two ropes of the same size. But remember
to keep to right over left and left over right, otherwise you will
end up with a granny knot, which may slip. |
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Sheet bend
An ideal way of joining two ropes. It does not slip and is easily
undone when the tension is released. |
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Bowline
Undoubtedly, the most important knot in use on a boat. Everyone should
learn how to tie it. It does not slip and can be easily undone when
the tension is released. However, it cannot be tied under tension.
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Rolling hitch
One of the most underrated knots. Ideal for transferring the weight
on an anchor chain or rope from one secure point to another. Can be
secured to other rope or chain (which is under tension) or spars and
so on, which are rigid. |
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Double sheet bend
The belt and braces version of the sheet bend. Recommended for joining
ropes of unequal size. |
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Round turn and two half-hitches
Ideal for securing fenders for long term, and also for securing to
mooring rings and so on. It can be tied under tension. |
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Clove hitch
A fast way to attach a rope to a fixed object, which may need to be
moved or adjusted quickly. Ideal for attaching fenders, but has a
tendency to slip if left for long periods. |
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| Securing to a cleat It is important to take one complete
turn around a cleat or bollard before starting the figures of eight.
A twisted turn on the last one secures the end. The initial complete
turn will ensure that the rope cannot jam itself onto the cleat and
makes it easier to remove. |
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| Using a mast cleat If you are left with excess halyard when
securing to a mast cleat, coil it up clockwise (make sure you always
coil clockwise), and by taking the end leading off the cleat through
the centre of the coil and twisting it round, it can be hooked onto
the top of the cleat, leaving the coil tidy and securely attached
to the mast. |
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| Coiling ropes Almost all laid or twisted ropes that you
are likely to come across are said to be 'right hand laid'. This means
that if you try to coil them anti-clockwise, they form figures of
eight. The moral therefore is always coil ropes clockwise. Once the
coil is formed, leave about 1.5m (5ft) to wrap around the coil about
three times, pulling a loop through the gap above the wrappings and
over the top of the coil. When the loose end is pulled, the coil keep
its form and can be stored away. |
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| Dipping the eye If you have to secure to a bollard that
is already being used, you can, by passing your eye through the centre
of all the other eyes already on the bollard, remove yours without
disturbing the others and other users can also remove theirs
without removing yours. |
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| Mooring The normal convention is for a head or bow rope
to run from the bow to the shore, a stern rope to run from the stern
to the shore, and for two springs, running from the bow and stern
to the shore. Also, it may be necessary to use breast ropes to run
from the bow and stern to the closest point of shore. However, be
careful that they are not too short and allow the boat sufficient
scope to rise and fall with the tide or with the wash caused by passing
vessels. |
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